Indian Red Wine Taste Test

Featured articles, Food and drink

Three wine experts blind-taste and score 15 popular Indian red wines for you. Find out which ones to go for this festive season and which are best left avoided

A  few years ago, it may have seemed outlandish to term the October to February period as the wine season in India, but now, given the growing number of wine tasting festivals across the country, it couldn’t be more apt.

While Mumbai hosts its annual wine tasting festival in November, the scene shifts to Pune in December, and January sees Delhi Food and Wine Festival kick-off.  Traditionally, Indians have been known to be reluctant to part with their preferred poisons – whisky, rum and vodka. However, a growing local wine industry has seen a surge in wine drinkers across Indian metros.

BLIND TASTE TEST

Given the predicted surge in wine consumption in India, we decided to conduct a blind taste test with three leading wine experts to help you decide which Indian red wines you should be drinking this season and which ones are best avoided.

We chose 15 of the most widely available red wines, made from two of the most popular grape varieties grown in India. Our experts were served Shiraz (or Syrrah as the French call it) and Cabernet Sauvignon and asked to rate these.

RIGHT CHOICES

Our three wine experts tasted and rated 15 popular red wines. Five of them scored well enough to be Right Choices.

65% GOOD EARTH BASSO RESERVE (CABERNET SAUVIGNON, 2009)

Rs. 1,450

Overall our judges thought this was a good, easy-drinking wine; light bodied with a medium finish.  Good Earth Winery, owned by Girish Mhatre, produces high-end wines. Launched in late 2009, their wines are targeted at the connoisseur and priced as such at the higher end of the spectrum. Antoine says, ‘I think their wines are very good, they’ve got good body, good length and structure.’

60% TIGER HILL (CABERNET SAUVIGNON, 2008)

Rs. 625

Tiger Hill was judged to be a refreshing wine with light acidity and medium finish. Owned by Kavita Chougule, wife of Vikrant Chougule of Chatuea Indage, Tiger Hill is a boutique winery located in Nashik that produces premium wines. The winery has been integrated with spa that offers, among other things, vinotherapy or the use of grape seeds to provide skincare treatments.

60% SULA DINDORI RESERVE (SHIRAZ, 2010)

Rs. 810

Our experts found the Sulda Dindori Reserve to be a pleasant, full-bodied wine with a good finish. Founded by Rajeev Samant in 1999, Sula is considered to be the real game changer of the Indian wine industry. To date Sula has sold over 30 lakh bottles of wines. Considered by many to be market leader, 2012 will see Sula host its fifth annual wine festival called Sulafest in Nashik.

58% GOOD EARTH BRIO RESERVE (SHIRAZ, 2008)

Rs. 1,375

Good Earth performed very well on our tests. Brio is recommended as a light bodied wine with the aroma was freshly brewed coffee.

58% TIGER HILL (SHIRAZ, 2008)

Rs. 625

Tiger Hill was another wine that our judges felt would do well with some decanting. Overall, it possesses good balance and pleasant aromas.

HOW WE TEST

Our blind taste test comprised 15 popular and widely available red wines. Of these, seven were Cabernet Sauvignon, six were Shiraz (or Syrah), and two were blends of Cabernet and Shiraz.

EXPERT PANEL

Our panel of experts included noted food writers Vikram Doctor, who writes a column for Economic Times, and Antoine Lewis, editor of Burrp.com. Our third expert was Alex Sanchez, executive chef at The Table, Colaba.

TEMPERATURES

All wines were served at  a temperature of18?C. Our aim was to replicate the ordinary consumer experience, therefore the wines were uncorked half an hour before the tasting.

CODING

All wine labels were concealed to avoid giving away the brand identity. We served each of the three judges the same wines in different, randomised orders.

SCORING

While wine tasting can be a somewhat subjective exercise, here’s what our scores indicate.

0-20 Very poor, 21-40 Poor, 41-60 Average, 61-80 Good, 81-100 Excellent

FEATURE EXPLAINED

The leading figures for wine consumption in India can be attributed to the metros situated in wine-producing states. Mumbai (in Maharashtra) accounts for 30% of wine consumption in India, while Bangalore (in Karnataka) stands at 15%, and Goa and Delhi account for 20% each.

While the excise revisions in Maharashtra have made beer, rum and whisky much more expensive in Mumbai and Pune – in some instances, making certain brands 25-60% costlier – the excise exemption granted to wine is meant to encourage you pick a bottle of locally-sourced red or white wine over that bottle of Smirnoff.

Speaking on the changes within the Indian wine industry, Vikram Doctor, who writes the column ‘On My Plate’ for Economic Times, notes, ‘The first round of wine grapes that came in were a mix of varietals, that people thought might do well here, combined with grapes that were currently fashionable abroad. Now, I think, some of the winemakers are experimenting with lesser known grapes that might be even better suited to our soil and climatic conditions.’

Commenting on the specificities of the Indian context, Antoine Lewis, editor at Burrp.com, says, ‘Since by and large we have warm weather I think the best white wines are fresh, crisp, fruity ones like Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc.’

Among red wines Antoine recommends ‘young, fresh, reds; wines that have very light tannins, but good acidity and a nice fruity bouquet.’ According to him, ‘Ideally, wines like these should be consumed within three years of the vintage – especially Indian wines. I think grapes like Sangiovese, Shiraz and Merlot are perfect. However, to be enjoyed, these wines do need a mature palate, which I think is presently missing.’

FAQ

‘Many western wines are highly finished industrial products. This may not sound flattering at first, but in fact it is, because it brings you the consistency and basic level of quality you might expect of a high grade industrial product,’ says Vikram, adding, ‘The struggle with Indian wines is to reach that basic industrial level of quality, rather than have the  wildly inconstant stuff you often get these days.’

Vikram explains, ‘I think we can also attribute this to a host of other factors including the fact that we do not have a highly evolved wine drinking culture. More importantly, with the success of Sula, the Maharashtra government began encouraging (both, in terms of capital and manufacturing capability) farmers to cultivate grapes for wines. A lot of people are therefore making “wines”, but these aren’t necessarily good wines. And the new Maharashtra state liquor excise rates, which upped the tax on everything except wine made in the state, seem designed to encourage the production of wine but not necessarily good wines.

‘Having said that, there are a few good wineries but these co-exist alongside some that just aren’t up to the mark.’

Is there a surefire way of choosing a good wine? Here’s what our expert Antoine Lewis has to say

Choosing a good wine requires, at the very minimum, an understanding of one’s personal preferences, some degree of familiarity with the grapes, the region, the wine style and sometimes, particularly for European wines, the vintage. As that’s a lot of information to expect from someone who’s getting into or new to wines here are some guidelines.

    1. Don’t buy Indian wines that are more than two years old from the date printed on the label. A wine made in 2009 is still good to drink, a 2008 is drinkable if stored properly, but it’s risky. Some Indian wines have the word ‘Reserve’ on the label, these are wines meant for aging and are good for up to five years, but only if you buy them from specialist wine retailers such as Nature’s Basket and Living Liquidz.
    1. Storage is crucial to the quality of the wine. It’s preferable to buy from a specialist since they normally store wines under optimal conditions which preserve the wine better.
    1. This is equally true for most stand-alone restaurants which don’t have special wine coolers for storage; so before you order find out where and how it’s been stored.
    1. Often restaurants offer wines by the glass, but not too many glasses may have been sold since the bottle was opened. Find out when the bottle was opened and if it is more than 3 days I would ask for a fresh bottle, unless they have special wine-by-the-glass equipment.
    1. All wines are not equal or suitable for all occasions. Generally, wines priced less than Rs. 400 are best for a large party where guests are drinking to enjoy themselves but not focused on the quality of the wine. For a more intimate gathering, wines around the Rs. 800 mark are a better choice, but if you’re looking to impress then opt for those starting at Rs. 1000.

You’ve ordered your favourite wine but does it complement your main course? Alex Sanchez tells you how to pair your wine and your food perfectly

When pairing food with wine there are certain factors that must be taken into consideration. The weight of the wine should match the weight of the food (you shouldn’t pair a heavy wine like Cabernet Sauvignon with a light green salad because the wine would mute the delicate flavour of the salad). Also, the wine must work harmoniously with the food (the characteristics of the wine should complement or contrast the characteristics of the food, but shouldn’t overpower it).

Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz (or Syrah as it is also known) are both relatively big wines that demand bold flavours when paired with foods. The most significant difference between the two varietals is the tannin content of which Cabernet Sauvignon contains higher levels.  Tannins provide structure for wines and allow them to stand up to fatty, protein-rich foods.

In the absence of protein, however, tannins have the ability to dry out the mouth, leaving behind a bitter taste.  Therefore, Cabernet Sauvignon is rarely a good pairing for vegetarian options, whereas Shiraz works wonderfully with grilled or roasted vegetables.  In general, Cabernet Sauvignon works best with rich meat roasts or stews while Shiraz covers a broader spectrum, pairing nicely with anything from game birds like quail or duck to beef and lamb.

With regards to Indian food (which tends to be spicy), Rieslings or sweeter styled Gewurstraminers work better because of their low alcohol content and slight sweetness. These low-alcohol wines, when paired with spicy foods, have a cooling effect whereas high-alcohol wines tend to further agitate the palate.

Choosing the right set of wine glasses can be an important part of wine appreciation. Wine glasses can be divided into three types: red wine glasses, white wine glasses and champagne flutes. Within these categories too, there can be great variety. For instance, Bordeaux glasses are designed for full bodied red wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, while Burgundy glasses – which have an even bigger bowl – are used to serve more delicate red wines such as Pinot Noir.

If you’re a red wine aficionado and looking to buy a set of wine glasses here’s what you should look for.

Firstly, take a good look at the material from which the glass is made. Colour is an important component of your wine drinking experience so make sure you choose clear glass. Frosted glass or other materials are a definite no.

Secondly, while most purists would vouch for long stemmed glasses, stemless varieties are also extremely popular. The most commonly accepted manner of grasping your glass is by its stem. It is generally understood that this prevents the wine temperature from being affected by your body heat.

However, stemless wine glasses can be less fragile and easier to pack and store. They appear less formal and intimidating. You might also find that their chic casual design better reflects your lifestyle.

Most importantly, however, we recommend choosing wine glasses with a wide, round bowl since this increases oxidation. A wide bowl is recommended for red wines since it leaves enough room for the wine to be swirled. This helps in the gradual oxidation of the wine and releases flavour and aroma.

We’ve all had our share of moments when we’ve enthusiastically and somewhat ineptly used the corkscrew to open a bottle of wine only to watch the cork disintegrate slowly and slide further back into the wine bottle. So, is there a trick to it?

We recommend that you invest in a good quality corkscrew. The twisted spiral metal known as the worm should be at least 1.5 to 2 inches long. Make sure that the tip is sharp and the edges smooth. There are several corkscrew designs out there. Here are some of the most popular ones.

WINGED CORKSCREW

The winged corkscrew – also referred to as the butterfly or angel corkscrew – is one of the most popular corkscrew designs. Once you’ve pierced the cork, inserted the corkscrew and twisted it into the cork, the levers (or wings) on either side of the corkscrew are raised. Push down the levers, and pull out the corkscrew along with the cork. This is an extremely easy to use corkscrew.

WINE KEY

Often called the sommelier knife or the waiter’s friend, the wine key is a compact corkscrew favoured by waiters and sommeliers alike. The design includes a screw, along with a blade and a lever that neatly fold into the handle, much like a pocketknife. The wine key has a simple design so you can wind the screw into the cork and then, with the assistance of the two position lever, extract the cork. This corkscrew requires practice and some skill, but it’s easy to carry around.

SCREWPULL

The Screwpull – especially the original corkscrew manufactured by Le Creuset – is very easy to use and therefore extremely popular. The corkscrew essentially consists of a long worm (about 6 inches), two handles that grip the bottle and a handle at the top of the corkscrew. All you need to do is to place the worm on the cork and start turning the handle. The worm bores into the cork and when eventually starts pulling the cork out of the bottle. This is a slightly bulkier and usually more expensive option.


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